Sunday, September 28, 2008

Rereading the last post, I'm not quite sure it captured how intensely social the French are, so I want to expand on that.

They are profoundly social, to the point where it is rare indeed to see a single person at a cafe or restaurant. And when there is a single person, I'd bet there's a pretty good chance he's a tourist or visitor, like me.

The cafes themselves are an institution that has no real parallel in the United States. Rows of seats all face the street, and are typically occupied by social groups of more than two people -- sometimes families, but more often groups of friends. They may order coffee, or alcohol, or light meals (there's a standard menu of salads and sandwiches that every cafe seems to offer), but the main point is to sit there, talk and people-watch.

If you want to socialize with your friends like that in Chelsea or the West Village, your options are generally to go to a restaurant at mealtime and order something resembling a full meal, or to go to a bar, but only after they open (typically no earlier than 5, sometimes later).

The happy hours at Cafe Cox and Open Cafe seem to be an extension of this social phenomenon. There is nothing like it in New York, except for Low Tea on Fire Island. Which is a good comparison, actually, because on Fire Island people actually break out of their New York rush and slow down and make time to socialize.

It's one of the things I like about the French, even if it's a phenomenon to which outsiders really aren't invited.

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