Sunday, February 15, 2009

Le Fin

I'm back in New York, and my work here is ended. I'll close by noting that last time back, what struck me was how big the elevators are. This time, it is how late the stores stay open. A Parisian-style patisserie has opened on our corner, and we went by it to see. They're open until 10p, which is NOT Parisian at all. But I like it.

Thanks for reading, and I hope to see many of you soon.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Soyez Mon Valentin?

Valentine's Day is, to my slight surprise, celebrated in France.

For the most part it's done in their typically understated fashion. I haven't seen any greeting cards that specifically mention Valentine's Day (but then, this is not a greeting-card culture), and few places have put up tacky (or even tasteful) decorations.

The main point of the holiday seems to be, unsurprisingly, food. A number of restaurants have put up discreet signs advertising special "Saint-Valentin" menus, and my local luxury-food store was advertising (without actually citing the holiday) foie gras for two with sweet wine before the fire. (A bit different than the typical American menu, that.)

But there is one industry that loudly and publicly celebrates Valentine's Day -- the sex shops:



Thursday, February 12, 2009

The Seven Habits of Highly Effective French Restaurants

Want to open a truly authentic French restaurant in the United States? Here are seven things you should do that the American crowd will find impossible to believe:

1. Keep the lights on as bright as you can.

2. Don't serve the bread until the appetizer arrives.

3. Serve wine in the smaller glass and water in the larger glass.

4. Always undercook the meat.

5. Insist on taking the dessert order at the same time as the appetizer and main course.

6. Refuse to serve coffee until after the dessert has been finished.

7. Be closed on at least one weekend day, if not both, and for four weeks in either August or January.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

There's a Cork on the Road

It shouldn't surprise anyone that the French love for food and wine permeates their popular culture, including slang.

The word "bouchon" means a cork, but it seems to also be a term for traffic jam, as this sign warning of construction on a major southern highway indicates:

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Sign of the Times

Twenty years ago it would have been shocking to see signs in the Paris Metro advertising English classes. But now, they're everywhere.

The biggest advertiser is an outfit named Wall Street Institute, but it seems their brand equity may no longer be what it used to be:

Saturday, February 7, 2009

La Cuisine Americaine

I was reminded today that the country I'm returning to in a week is, to the French, a foreign and even exotic land.

In the international section of the food hall of one of the big Parisian department stores is a shelf devoted to food of the United States and Canada:


If you look closely at the picture you can see what the French consider worth importing from North America: popcorn, pancake mix, peanut butter and roasted peanuts, barbecue sauce, cranberries, molasses and that harsh yellow stuff Americans call mustard. (The Canadian contribution, as far as I could tell, was limited to maple syrup.)

Truth be told, there is nothing on that shelf that I've missed in six months of living here.

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Voulez-vous un sandwich?

I think it was Paul Theroux who said that the French get the same frisson from using certain English words as English-speakers do when they use the word frisson.

"Sandwich" is certainly one of those words.

Sandwichs, to use the French plural (no "e" before the "s") are very common here but they are almost always made on split baguettes rather than sliced bread:


Popular fillings include ham and cheese, salami or similar types of dried sausage, tuna salad and occasionally chicken. The first sandwich I ever had in France, in 1988, was made with pate but that is very hard to find now, for some reason.

They are made and served in virtually every bakery and cafe, usually for less than 5 euros ($6.50) apiece. "Sandwichs" are not luxury or exotic items by any stretch of the imagination.

Still, nearly every bakery sells them in specially labeled bags just in case you might not understand what's inside: